Mattress Stain & Odor Cleaner

Mostly sweat and body oil that soaked into the fabric and oxidized, plus some drool and urine. They're protein and oil, so enzymes break them down and a damp cloth lifts them out, which works better than scrubbing.

Foam, latex, and padding hold water and dry slowly, and trapped moisture turns into mildew and odor. This mist is meant to dampen only the top fabric, never soak through.

Both use enzymes, but they're applied differently. A pet urine cleaner soaks deep into carpet and cushions; this mattress spray stays low-moisture and targets sweat, oil, and blood so the inside of the mattress stays dry. For a large pet accident on a mattress, use them together.

Channel, scent, and bundle. Homes or hotels and vacation rentals (hospitality wants larger sizes and fast drying), light scent or fragrance-free (families with babies and allergies prefer fragrance-free), and whether to bundle a mattress protector for a full mattress-care line.

Free samples ship in 3–5 days. MOQ is 500 bottles, and production is scheduled once packaging and labels are approved.

Usually sweat and body oil that soaked into the top layers and oxidized over time; spills, drool, and pet accidents add to it. Vacuum, lightly mist yellowed areas, blot, and air it out, then add a mattress protector. A musty smell means moisture inside, which this spray won't fix.

Cold. Heat sets the protein in blood into the fibers. Blot a fresh stain with a cold damp cloth first, then treat it.

Used as a light mist, 2–4 hours with an open window. A fan or dehumidifier speeds it up. Make the bed only once it's fully dry.

Yes, with the low-moisture method. Memory foam doesn't handle water well, so mist the cover fabric only and don't soak it.

It can lighten them, but old stains rarely disappear fully because the sweat has oxidized deeper. Repeat two or three times, letting it dry fully between passes.

Treat stains as they happen, and give it a general clean every three months along with flipping and vacuuming. A mattress protector keeps most sweat out to begin with.

Spray, blot, and let it dry fully before making the bed; the unscented version is the better pick for a baby's mattress.

It handles sweat, urine, and odor; mold means long-term moisture and needs professional treatment or replacement.

Blot up as much as you can, mist the spot with the enzyme cleaner, then let it dry thoroughly. Urine odor comes from protein and urea residue, and fragrance only masks it. Enzymes break that residue down at the source. For a soak-through accident, repeat once the mattress is fully dry.

Work in light passes instead of soaking it. Mist the stain, give the enzymes a few minutes, blot with a dry towel, and let it dry fully before the next pass. Two or three rounds lift more than one heavy soak and keep water out of the foam, where it leads to mildew. Old oxidized stains will lighten but rarely vanish.

Formula direction, scent (light or fragrance-free), fill size (500 mL fine-mist spray, 1 L refill, and more), trigger type, label design and language, and bundles with a mattress protector or cleaning cloths.

Use swatches of common mattress ticking (knit, jacquard, Tencel blends) stained with sweat, blood, and urine, and record stain removal, drying time, water rings, and any color change. That tells you more than a before-and-after photo.

Documents such as SDS/MSDS, TDS, COA, and label copy for your target market are prepared per project. We confirm which ones your order includes when we quote.